To the north is a small
backbay. The bridge, in each direction, is three lanes and is lifted by a
series of concrete columns, looking like square fingers rising from the water,
blackened by the salty environment, humidity and age. The concrete surface has
the southern, sooty charm look. This
spot called to me, like the Sirens called to Odysseus and his crew, but I did
not plug my ears, I went to find them.
After
creeping down a steep grassy embankment, jumping off a seawall and tiptoeing through
low tide muck, I encountered a culture that was new to me. I will, from this
point, forever refer to them as the fishing people. I found, beneath the
bridges, under the rumble of the tanker trucks and other traffic above, in the
glow and smoke of small fires, a gathering of gypsies, of sort. Lester and
Azalea, Pooch and Wanda, Hector and Enny and their Chihuahua. Bodacious, along
with many others were there, just as they are often there, out of the mainstream
of this town.
They come to fish, catch and cook, some out of love of the sport,
some because it provides a necessary meal. These folks are not homeless,
however, there are homeless people there. The homeless do not give their names,
only greetings and nods. They come for the fish, because it is readily shared,
even though they have nothing to offer in return. I am a stranger with a camera
who, out of courtesy, snaps only shots that are not personal, and I am offered
a roasted ear of corn, a thick, sizzling slice of sheepshead and a cold beer. I
thank the group, tell them I just ate, but maybe next time.
This
spot is also about relaxing, enjoying the sunset as it paints the skyline and
watching the seabirds pick an evening roost. It is about joking, as one woman
tells her husband to go rinse his legs in the water, get off the black muck with
its strong decay and mineral odor. He laughs and says, “But baby, rich people
pay at a spa to smear this stuff on!” Then,
everyone laughs when the wife responds, “Yeah, well you ain’t rich enough to
smell that bad.” There is low talk about politics and benefits and the weather,
resulting in heads shaking and nodding and an occasional “Amen.” So it
continues until Lester and Azalea stand up and start gathering their gear.
Others do the same. There are farewells and hugs and handshakes and “see you
tomorrow” calls. There is a dousing of the flames and a slow exit, which does
not seem so much slow because people are old and tired as it seems they hate to have
to go. I know the feeling.
Wish I were there!
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