I
have recently been to Itawallasassa, also known as The Place Where The
Creatures Fly. A spot that is a depression in the earth’s surface, placing it
closer to Hell, it has the presence of being more remote rather than rural. There
is a brutal nature to its nature. One must slice through the heat and humidity,
the sandy ground like molten iron, the sun like welding arc. Water evaporates
as sweat soon after it is swallowed. It seems, after only a few minutes, that
most bodies would not have the strength to carry enough water to travel
boundary to boundary, whether north to south, or east to west. This is not
fact, but the compression from the dense air makes a person think that, so, you
only walk a distance that, in your mind, you know will allow for safe return. A nervousness and fear keep you glancing back,
as though you are tethered to the entry point.
Entry
is through a dense thicket of palmetto, vine and briar. Because of the climate
extreme, there are few mammals living in the place, however, they do come for a
drink of the stale, black water from the long pond. The pond is narrow, maybe
fifty feet, but nearly a quarter mile long. There are reptiles in the brush and
along the ground; they are forever alert and wait for the mammals to arrive.
The chalky bones of the unfortunate are liberally scattered. Those are the issues
of small life at Itawallasassa, Smaller yet are the creatures that fly,
butterflies, dragonflies, damselflies, bees and numerous other varieties of
insects. The plants and air are flush with such life. It is for that reason I
go there.
There
is little tolerance for visitors and there is evidence of this at the entry,
which always has a display of warnings or omens. On each of my visits I have
had to contend with distinct, mostly frightening and intimidating, effects. I
do not know the meaning or significance, whether cultural or religious, of any
of the items, but I am aware of the purpose. I do not know who places the ominous
symbols and devices near the entry. I have never met anyone within the
boundaries, whether visitor or inhabitant.
On
this visit I made my way through the thick, scratching brush and bramble, only
to happen upon a shark carcass hanging from a tree. There were also various
parts of the shark’s body impaled on sticks. The odor of decay was forceful,
invasive, and I had no choice byt to lift the neck opening of my shirt over my
mouth and nose. It was of little help to do so. To the left of the shark was a
small pepper tree and on it hung three necklaces fashioned of thin root,
adorned by a small crab claw. I have found necklaces there before and surmised
that they were to be worn while in the place. I was not certain of that, the
first time there, but my senses told me I would have safe passage, if I was
wearing one. So, I did and I do.
I
take my first drinks after about a hundred yards, my clothing already drenched
with sweat, to the point I could wring out the moisture. There is no sound. No
breeze, no lapping water, no dead leaves or brush to crackle beneath a foot or
paw or claw. There is only labored breathing and heartbeat from within myself and the
buzz, hum and thrum of flying creatures. Some seem curious, others have the
edginess that has kept them alive. I constantly whirl and turn, shuffle through
the growth to shoot my photos, stopping often to wipe the stinging sweat from
my eyes. Without awareness I travel to where the trail narrows to footpath
width and the entry has disappeared. It is easy to return, to follow my marks
in the sand, but it is the unknown of what is ahead that forces a decision. I
have the necklace, I have my water, I have my camera, I have my curiosity, the
only question is whether I have my courage. The sun is centered, the shadows
short, the flying creatures beckon from the narrowing path ahead.
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